The payoff for the effort is worth it.

For the Text Block

• 20 sheets Strathmore Bristol Weight Board (110lb), cut to 16.5”W x 5.5”H and folded into 5 signatures
  
• 2 sheets of Canson Mi-Teintes (25lb); tan color, cut to 16.5”W x 5.5”H, folded in half for the flyleaves
  
• 1 piece of scrap paper from flyleaves, cut to 3.5”W x 5.5”H for spine stiffener
  
• Headband
  
• Mull (reinforced with fusible interface if not backed with paper)
  
• Ribbon for bookmark
  
• Binder’s thread for sewing
  
• Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) Glue (or homemade glue, see recipe section)
  
• Stool as sewing frame

For the Cover

• 4 pieces Crescent All Media Board (No. 16 Cold Press Medium Weight), cut to 9”Wx6”H and doubled up for extra thickness
  
• 2 pieces Crescent All Media Board, cut to 1.25”Wx6”H for the spine
  
• 1 piece of book cloth, cut to 4.5”W x 7”H
  
• Printed artwork for cover [.pdf files to come]

DIRECTIONS
1. Check grain of paper, book board and cloth
For the cover: Feel for the direction of the grain by folding an uncut piece of mat board. The part of the board that flexes easily is the direction that the grain is running. When you feel resistance to flexing, you are folding the board against the grain.

For the pages: Wet half an inch of the horizontal and vertical edge of a sheet of paper you will be using. The edge that wrinkles or bubbles is the axis and should be placed perpendicular to the spine. The side that curls is where the threads of the paper (grain) lie.


When you’ve determined the grain, mark the paper, board and cloth so that the grain runs parallel to the spine.

2. Cut
Measure, mark, and cut the materials carefully. Keep the the text pages and boards aligned as much as possible when cutting. I used black binder clips to keep the papers together and spraymount spray adhesive to glue the media boards together and pressing under weights before cutting. Store all the cut materials in a clean place until ready for use.

3. Fold
Count out 4 sheets for each signature for a total of 5 signatures. Align the sheets and fold the signature in half. I think that investing in a bone folder would’ve helped since the paper I chose (Strathmore) is thick. But using the equivalent—a handy dandy gift or credit card and burnisher—worked just as well. Score each signature along the fold, making repetitive motions from the center out until the fold is nice and sharp.

Gather, align and place the folded signatures on a firm surface. Cover the signatures with a piece of scratch paper and place under weights. This is to help with the sewing process later on. You may choose trim the edges of the pages after pressing, which will provide a cleaner edge.

Preparing for sewing: Hole punching vs. sawing?
Because you’ll join the signatures by sewing, it’s important that all the holes for the stitching are perfectly aligned. For this step, I combined two different techniques: hole punching and sawing. As a note however, hole punching and/or sawing creates a tear in the paper, which compromises the strength and durability of the pages. So in general, it's best to stick to one of the methods above. The sawing technique is more elaborate as a sewing frame (stool) is required. However, this helps to ensure that the signatures are aligned and the threads are secure. If you're not looking for anything too intricate, you can choose to sew without the frame.

4. Mark the stations (holes) where the sewing stitches will go
On a piece of cardstock the same height as the spine and about 3” wide, mark ½” in from the top and bottom of the text block for the end stations. Then, mark off 1½” from the top and bottom for the sunken cords. Mark the center line on top and bottom edge of the cardstock to help with aligning with the signatures. Take a push pin (substitute for awl) and punch holes where marked. Repeat the measurments on 2 pieces of scrap mat board cut to size of the signatures.

5. Use template created to punch holes in signatures
Lay the first signature on a rubber mat, and align the center line of the cardstock to the center line of the signature. Using a push pin, proceed to punch holes in the signature. Depending on the type of paper you used, you may need to apply pressure several times. Before moving on to the next signature, make sure that the needle you’re using can easily slip through the holes.

6. Create slots for "sunken cords"
Gather the hole punched signatures together. Place the scrap mat board with the measurements for the stations over the signatures. The holes in the signatures should align with markings on the mat board. Bind the signatures and mat board securely with a black binder clip (acting as a paper press). The scrap mat board will protect the signatures and offer a guide of where you will create the slots for the “sunken cords,” or thread that will hold the pages together.

Use a sharp utility knife (in place of a saw) to score the signatures, moving the blade from the outer edge toward you in one fluid motion. Be careful not to cut too deep into the signatures or the pages will tear. Check that the thread you’re using fits in the slot before unbinding the volume.

7. Attach the flyleaves
Using a piece of scratch paper, cover the flyleaves, leaving a ¼" exposed. Apply a thin layer of glue and attach the flyleaf to the first sheet of the signature. Keep the flyleaf ¼" away from the fold or spine of the signature. Repeat the process for the flyleaf on the end of the volume. Place the volume under weights and let dry.

8. Prep the sewing frame
If you have a sewing frame handy or if you’re willing to shell out lots of moolah for one, go ahead and pull it out for use. If you’re a novice like me, grab a stool from the kitchen.

Turn the stool upside down and cut piece of cardboard to fit the gap between the rungs to act as the base. Take the first signature with the flyleaf side down and place it on the cardboard base. Using the slots previously marked as a guide, tie two pieces of thread from the base of the stool to the top, one at each slot. Check that the threads line up with the slots in the signature and pull the threads taut.

9. Start sewing
Begin sewing by passing the needle through the first station on the right from the outside in. Leave a 4” length of thread trailing. Take the needle through the second station, passing it around the cord and back through the same (second) station. Continue threading until you reach the last station. Set the needle down and press on the spine of the volume to keep the signature flat. Gently tug on the cords to keep them taut.

Pick up the second signature and position it accordingly. Resume sewing where you left off, this time beginning at the first station from the left and continuing until you reach the last station on the right.



Note: The photos taken while sewing with the stool was done one handed, so the pics came out fuzzy :( I recreated the sewing process for reference below. Contrasting color threads were used for demonstration purposes.

When you’ve completed sewing the second signature, set the needle down and press down on the signature to slide it along the thread. Tighten the cords. Pick up the 4 inch piece of thread from the start of sewing and knot the thread.

Using a separate needle, thread an 8” length of thread. Insert the needle around in the first station from the left, passing the needle between the first and second signatures and around the thread attached to the hole. Knot the thread, leaving 4” hanging which you’ll use to as a link stitch for the next signature.

Position the third signature in place and resume sewing from the first station at the right. When the needle has come out of the last station, pick up the strands of thread knotted previously. Pass the needle through the first and second signatures and around the thread picked up earlier (the link-stitch thread). Pull to keep the 3 signatures together.

Continue sewing the next signature, starting from the first station on the left. When you’ve reached the last station, set down the needle and gently slide the signature down the cords. Pick up the 4” thread left on the right and make a knot to join the third signature to the fourth signature.

Align the final signature, making sure the flyleaf is exposed. Proceed to sew starting from the first station on the right. When the needle passes through the last station , pick up the 4” thread on the left and repeat the link stitch procedure noted earlier, passing the needle through the third and fourth signatures.

Secure the threads at both ends with a tight double knot and cut the thread. Leave a strand of 2” hanging. Remove the volume from the stool base by cutting the threads at the top and bottom, leaving a 2” piece of thread hanging. The book is now sewn and ready for assembly!

10. Assemble the text block
Tug gently on the threads to make the overall volume compact. Trim the remaining threads to ¾” and glue the thread to the edge of the spine. Use a round brush to spread a thin layer of glue along the spine. Protect the flysheet by placing a piece of scratch paper or board up to the edge of the spine. Cover volume with scratch paper and press under weights until dry.

In the meantime, measure the width of the spine. Cut a piece of mull the same height as the spine but 1½” wider. Reinforce mull with fusible interfacing if mull isn’t backed with paper. Spread glue over the paper side of mull and let dry for a few seconds. Attach mull to spine of volume, making sure to overlap the edge. Use toothbrush (substitute for bristle brush) to brush glue into crevices of signatures.

Measure out a bookmark by laying a piece of ribbon diagonally along the volume and adding 3”. Measure out the headband by laying the headband across the width of the spine. Apply glue to the edge of the ribbon and headbands (one for the top and one for the bottom) and press along the spine. The volume is now ready for the cover!

11. Assemble the cover
Take the piece of book cloth already cut and mark on the paper side where the spine, front and back covers will lie. Position the mat boards accordingly and align the spine of the pressed volume along the spine of the board. Gauge the gap left to allow the book to open and close properly, making sure the flyleaves will fit and the gap isn’t too big or too small. Once the sizing and measurements are accurate, use a flat brush to apply glue to the paper side of the book cloth. Let the glue dry for a bit and attach the pieces of the cover.

Fold the cloth over the top and bottom of the text, using the gift card or burnisher to score along the edges. Turn over and press the cloth to the board, working from the center out. Run the sharp edge of the burnisher along the crevice of the cloth to create a visible indentation in the spine. Fold the completed cover and check that the edges are properly aligned.

12. Glue artwork paper to board
Take the artwork printout and align on the cover and back. Adjust the printout accordingly; be sure to add ½” for the turn in folds and ½” where the cover paper overlaps the cloth. Trim the corners of the printout at an angle to create neat corners.

Apply glue onto the back of the cover artwork with a flat brush, working from the center out. Let the glue dry a bit and align over the cover, making sure to overlap the cloth by ½” and that the paper extends ½” from the board for the turn ins. Lay the cover artwork onto the board and press gently from the center out to attach paper onto the mat board. Turn the cover over. Use the gift card or burnisher to fold the turn ins.

13. Attach text block to cover
Take the spine stiffener cut from scraps of flyleaf paper. Use the edge of a ruler and the gift card or burnisher to create a fold the same size as the width of the spine. Cut the sides of the paper at an angle to create a hinge. Apply glue to the center of the spine stiffener and attach to the spine of the text block.

Use scratch paper to mask off the flyleaf of the book. Apply glue to outside of the left flap hinge (for the cover). Center the spine of the book over the spine on the cover. Holding the text block straight, apply the flap hinge to the cover, pressing from the center out. Use the pointed end of the gift card or burnisher to press the hinge flap to the cloth cover. Repeat the process with the hinge flap for the back cover.

Use scratch paper to mask off the text pages. Apply glue to the back side of the flyleaf from the center out. Hold the spine of the text block flat against the spine board and fold the cover over the glued flyleaf. Press from the center out to attach the flyleaf to the cover board. Repeat the process for the back flyleaf. Place pieces of wax paper between the inside pages and place book under weights. Let the spine overhang beyond the weights.

Ta-Da! Journal Complete!

Okay, make that journals. I couldn't decide on whether I liked a horizontal journal or a vertical journal. So I made both.

Resources: Helpful Books
Bookbinding Basics by Paola Rosati
Making and Keeping Creative Journals by Suzanne Tourtillott
Making Journals by Hand Jason Thompson
The Essential Guide to Handmade Books by Gabrielle Fox

Links
Kurt Halsey Artwork. Check it.
Volcano Arts Extensive supply of bookbinding material, including book making kits. Check out the trade list of handmade journals. Oh, and there really IS a Volcano, CA!
The Art Store (now part of the Dick Blick Art Supply Stores). Extensive supply of art and craft material. I've yet to visit the store for fear I'll get carried away. Go for the discount if you're an Art student. :)
Talas Online Great collection of bookbinding and archiving supplies, newly launched online site.
The Recknynge Press Homemade sewing frame plus cool photo how-to. Check out how cords in spine is left exposed underneath leather.
European Papers Sewing frame for $15! It looks like something you could craft yourself after a visit to Home Depot. Site also has extensive collection of bookbinding materials. Their Romancing the Stone kit reminds me of another DIY from awhile back...glass magnets.
The Los Angeles Book Arts Center Community for those interested in book arts. Check out Gallery for Edible Books (heh) and Events if interested in classes or trades. Resources page of help also. See also San Fran & New York Book Arts Center.

Artwork courtesy of Kurt Halsey.
Cover: We're never on the same page 8x8
Back:
Image - Pages 8x8
Text - Chapters 8x8
Text reads: All the meaning in the moment. Beyond that just chapters in your life.

Gather Materials and supplies

Colophon
Cover: 1/8" Mill Board with cloth cover and artwork printouts
Interior pages: Strathmore Bristol Weight Board, 100lb, archival quality
Flyleaves: Canson Mi-Teintes, 25lb, archival quality
Total hours: lost count; construction possibly 4-6+
Total cost: $20+
Difficulty level: Annoyingly anal and perfectionistic
Error count: 4 (shhh)

Music streamed while putting project together:
Aimee Mann ~ Lost in Space
Stars ~ Heart
Once Blue ~ Once Blue
Norah Jones ~ Come Away with Me
Everything But the Girl ~ Acoustic
(mellow eh?)

The materials you'll need:

To begin, you'll want to size your paper so that it's a perfect square. Usually, if you're working with 8.5 x 11 letter paper, just take one corner and fold it diagonally across to the edge and repeat with the other corner. You'll get a X showing you your perfect square and can trim off the excess.

Next, get ready for some folding which will be essential to the construction of the box. See the X creased in the image above? You'll want to take the corners of your paper and fold it to the center of the X. After you do that, your paper should look like this:

Not too hard right?

If you're working with stock paper, the folding process can be made a bit easier with a bone folder or any credit or gift card you have on hand. The creasing and folding, again, is an important step and will make assembling the box later on a heck of a lot easier. Use the card, it'll help!

Once you've folded the corners to the center you should see a diamond outlining the X as shown in the image above. You'll want to fold the corners up again, this time taking one corner and folding it to the opposite corner a third of the way up using the diamond outline as a guide.

Repeat the process with the other three corners and when you're done your paper should be riddled with diamonds, making it look quilted like so:

One more fold before we start assembling the box, just remember to repeat the process for the other three corners:

Now position the paper so that a corner is facing you and locate the centermost square. This will be the size of your box.

Find the right and left edge of the centermost square and follow it down to the corner facing you. You'll be making cuts along these vertical lines up to the bottom edge of the centermost square.

Repeat the process for the other vertical line on the same corner.

Then repeat again ONLY for the corner directly across from you.

Ready to origami? With the corners that you just made cuts to still facing you, take an uncut corner and fold it to the center of the X as in step 1. As you're folding, push up the edges of the paper so they're lined up with the center square like so:

Repeat the process on the opposite side and use a sticker to secure the corners to the bottom of the box.

Then take the remaining corners and fold them up over the flaps from the other corner. Secure with another sticker if needed.

Ta-dah!

You'll have to repeat the process to get the second part of the box, the base. Only scale the paper you're working on down a little bit smaller than the original so the base will fit within the cover. Repeat all the steps and when you're done, cover, decorate, design.

When the school term neared its completion, I wanted to give the girls something as a way of thanks, so I made the following:

*A template for the heart card can be found here.

*Turning the bag inside out and then sewing would be advisible too!

Then, flatten the bag down so it looks like this:

After that, you can determine how deep of a bottom you want your bag to have, measure and sew across the corner.

Another thing that took some experimentation for us to get right: straps. We made ours out of the same material as the tote, but inevitably they'd get crooked and twisted when we finished sewing them on. To solve this problem (and really, to make it easy on ourselves so there was no confusion) simply use the same process as above.

Take the bag and center the side seams, placing your hands on either side of the seam to prop the tote open. Then, prepare the straps so they're facing each other and place them on the tote so it looks like you're creating a pair of suspendered pants.

The dotted red line in the photo denotes the centered side seam.

Obviously, you want to avoid twisted straps like these:

Pin the straps down between the tote and lining, then sew them in place.

And there you go, cute, easy handmade tote bags. If you can master the basics, you can move on to extras like adding a pocket. Or, you can tackle more ambitious projects like this.